A Fresh, Bright Interplay of Flavors and Textures

Quinoa Chowder with Sweet Corn| Dara O’Brien

By Dara O’Brien
Creative Director, Lake Isle Press

I grew up in New Jersey. Here are a few things I can tell you about it: 1) Everybody from the state is one degree removed from Bruce Springsteen (for example, a friend of mine was his personal chef some years back) 2) When New Jerseyans visit the ocean, they go down the shore; they do not hit the beach, visit the seaside, or tour the coastline 3) Every summer, the world’s best tomatoes and sweet corn are their birthright.

I was never much of a tomato fan as a kid, but I relished the arrival of fresh sweet corn every summer. Ears of corn were the festive touch that turned a meal into an event; the showstopping life of the party, not the kind of dish a mere solo diner would indulge in. Perhaps it was the overflowing bins at the markets that were always priced in quantities, never for a single ear; the husking ritual my sisters and I had to perform before the meal; or the way my mom would wrap the hot ears in dishtowels to keep them warm when she brought them to the table, but I never thought of fresh sweet corn as an everyday kind of thing.

Fortunately, I got over that. After years of hoping that corn would be on the menu when I was invited to a barbecue and being delighted if it was and sad if it wasn’t, I began questioning why I didn’t just make it for myself. Once I discovered how easy it is to microwave it, which can be done in the husk and takes four minutes, I had no reason not to.

Microwaving was the entry point that allowed me to add fresh sweet corn to my home cooking, but it’s no longer the only way I prepare it. Sure, it’s a great solo act, but sweet corn is also a real trooper that plays well with other foods. I’ve come to appreciate it on its own as well in salads, salsas, pastas, risottos, sauces, and so much more. Its distinctive, friendly taste augments but never overpowers.

Here is a recipe that features corn as a key supporting player among a wonderful interplay of flavors and textures: Quinoa Chowder With Sweet Corn, from “The Latin Road Home” by Jose Garces, published by Lake Isle Press. There are a few levels happening here: the quinoa-laden broth that’s like creamy porridge, the light flavor of sweet corn, the smokiness of the achiotes paste, with added bursts of taste and texture from bacon and potato.

Jose suggests serving it with avocado and Aji Costeño, an Ecuadorian hot sauce. I didn’t have an avocado on hand, but I made the aji according to his recipe (subbing jalapeño for Fresno chiles) and mixed some into the chowder for a zippy new layer of flavor that packed gentle heat. By the way, I used a homemade corn stock instead of veggie stock for this, because, why not? For a vegan option, leave out the bacon and substitute coconut milk for heavy cream.

My mom always prepared sweet corn one way: husked and boiled, then served on the cob topped with butter, salt, and pepper, which is indeed divine. I’m guessing that each year come sweet corn season I’ll happily prepare it that way—at least once. And no matter the cooking technique or recipe, like always, it will stop the show.

Crema de Quinoa de Zuleta Recipe
(Quinoa Chowder With Sweet Corn)

Click here for printable recipe.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS
2 cups vegetable oil, for frying
1 small russet potato, peeled and cut into matchsticks
Kosher salt
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 Spanish onion, finely chopped
2 Tbsp minced garlic (4 to 6 cloves)
1 Tbsp achiote paste
1 1/2 cups quinoa (any color)
Kernels cut from 2 ears fresh white sweet corn or 1 cup thawed and drained frozen white corn kernels
5 cups vegetable stock
1 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbsp minced fresh chives or cut into 1 1/2-inch strips
1/4 lb smoked bacon, cut into strips, cooked until crisp, and drained
Sliced avocado, for serving
Ají Costeño, for serving (see below)

PREPARATION

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Heat the vegetable oil to 375°F in a Dutch oven over medium heat, using a candy or deep-fry thermometer to monitor the temperature.
Fry the potatoes in batches, turning in the oil until golden brown and very crispy on all sides, 1 to 2 minutes per batch. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fried potatoes to the baking sheet to drain and cool. Season to taste with salt.
Heat the butter and olive oil in a stockpot over medium heat. Cook the onion and garlic, stirring occasionally, until translucent, about 10 minutes. Stir in the achiote paste and cook for another 5 minutes. Stir in the quinoa and corn and cook, stirring often, until the grain is lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and cream and bring to a boil. Decrease the heat to medium-low and simmer the chowder uncovered until the quinoa is very tender and the liquid is reduced by one-quarter, about 45 minutes.
To serve, fold in the parsley, chives, bacon, and fried potatoes. Season to taste with salt. Garnish with avocado and serve ají on the side.

Ají Costeño
(Ecuadorian Hot Sauce)

Click here for printable recipe

Makes one cop

INGREDIENTS
4 red Fresno chiles, seeds and ribs removed, finely diced
1/2 plum tomato, finely diced
1/4 Spanish onion, finely diced
2 scallions (white and green parts), finely chopped
2 Tbsp minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 Tbsp minced fresh cilantro
2 Tbsp distilled white vinegar
2 Tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp agave nectar
Kosher salt

PREPARATION

Combine all the ingredients in a bowl except for the salt and mix well. Remove half of the vegetables and set aside in a separate bowl. Pulse the remaining half in a food processor only until the vegetables are finely chopped; it should not be a smooth sauce. Fold in the reserved vegetables. Season the sauce to taste with salt. Chill before using.

Recipes from “The Latin Road Home” by Jose Garces Lake Isle Press, 2012