Panisses (Chickpea Fries)

By Dara O’Brien
Creative Director, Lake Isle Press

Leave it to me to be cutting back on alcohol just when I tried my first panisse. They say these creamy batons of fried chickpea flour go hand in glove with a glass of rosé on the streets of Marseille, and for me, a crisp, dry French rosé is pure heaven. I stayed firm to commitment, though, and paired mine with an Arnold Palmer (lemonade/iced tea). Well, hey, that works, too.

Panisses were new to me, but then, that’s not too unusual. Various foods I’ve never tried and what I don’t know about them can and do fill many a cookbook. For example, I only recently began eating almonds. And I tasted my first mango about two weeks ago.

I tried panisses because I was at a French restaurant with friends who wanted to get an appetizer, and amidst a sea of shrimp, olives, goat cheese, and escargot, chickpea fries seemed like the only thing I might remotely eat.

I was right. More than that, I liked them.

So much, in fact, that I decided to try to make them myself. I’m a big fan of French fries, and panisses are similar; but they also differ. First, they have a different taste and texture than potatoes, with a creamy center that’s really appealing. And since they’re made with chickpea flour they are more nutritious than fries, offering a good source of protein and fiber, plus they are low on the glycemic scale.

I made my panisses following a recipe from “The Chickpea Flour Cookbook” by Camilla V. Saulsbury, published by Lake Isle Press (recipe below). It’s dead simple to follow, but the process is unlike anything I’ve ever made before. You mix chickpea flour and water with olive oil (some recipes leave the oil out, but I think the small bit of fat boosts both texture and flavor). Heat up some of the water and mix it all together until it gets thick and kind of gooey. When the mixture cools you refrigerate it for at least an hour, and it becomes an even thicker, smooth, flexible sort of dough that’s solid enough to cut into pieces.

I had my doubts that the mixture would solidify, but it did, similar to polenta. Not knowing polenta (don’t judge, it’s on my list of foods to try), I just stumbled my way through making the panisses, but they turned out quite well on the first try.

I decided to fry mine rather than broil them, and I made them in three successive batches. I cut them a little smaller each time and became more comfortable with the frying process, so by the last batch I felt like I was really getting the hang of it. I used enough oil to cover the fries about halfway, which worked just fine, no deep frying needed.

There were leftovers. I reheated some later that night when a friend stopped by and some the next day. They tasted great. So not only do panisses make a great appetizer for a party, they can be pre-made and reheated, which makes them even easier. I served mine with just salt and pepper and a squirt of lemon, but they’d be nice with a dipping sauce, as well. Camilla recommends a Romesco in her book (and provides the recipe).

The verdict? These tasty little treats are simple to make and go down very easy, no wine needed. Bon appétit.

Panisses
(Chickpea French Fries)

Click here for printable recipe.

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

Olive oil for greasing pan, frying, or broiling
1 cup (120 grams) chickpea flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 cups water
2 teaspoons olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper
Lemon wedges, for serving

PREPARATION

Grease the bottom and sides of a 9-inch square baking pan with olive oil.
In a medium bowl, whisk the flour and salt together. Whisk in 1 cup of the water and the olive oil until blended and smooth.
In a medium saucepan, bring the remaining 1 cup water to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and whisk in the batter. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 4 minutes, until the batter is very thick. Immediately pour and spread it into the prepared pan; use a spatula dipped in warm water to smooth the top.
Cool the mixture to room temperature then place in the refrigerator, loosely covered, for at least 1 hour or for up to 24 hours. Invert it onto a cutting board and cut it into 1/4-inch-wide batons.
There are two ways to cook the panisses. To fry them, heat 1/4 inch of olive oil in a large skillet. When the oil is hot (add a small test piece to skillet; it should bubble immediately), add about a third of the fries, taking care not to overcrowd the pan. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until the bottoms are golden brown; turn them over with tongs or a spatula and cook for 1 to 2 minutes longer, until deep golden brown. Transfer the fries to a paper towel-lined plate to drain; repeat with the remaining fries, heating more oil in the pan as needed.
Alternatively, to broil the panisses, position the broiler rack in the oven 8 inches from the heat source. Grease a large rimmed baking sheet with olive oil and place it on the rack to preheat, 3 minutes. Using an oven mitt (sheet will be very hot), remove the sheet from the oven. Arrange the panisses on the sheet. Broil for 3 to 5 minutes, until golden brown. Remove from the oven and flip the panisses over with a spatula. Broil for 3 to 5 minutes longer, until the other sides are golden brown.
Season the panisses with salt and pepper and squeeze the lemon wedges over them. Serve hot.

Variations

Italian Panelle: Prepare the panisses as directed, but add 2 cloves garlic, minced, to the batter along with the olive oil. Spread the batter into an 8-inch square pan (so that mixture is thicker when firm). Cut the chilled panelle into 16 rectangular pieces and cook as directed (fry or broil).
Panelle Sandwiches: Prepare panelle as directed above but cut the block of chilled batter into 4 equal squares and cook as directed (fry or broil). Serve on gluten-free buns or bread as you would a burger with the topping of your choice.