A Smoky, Flavorful Pasta Dish That’s Even Better the Next Day

By Dara O’Brien
Creative Director, Lake Isle Press

About ten years ago I had my first taste of Drunken Noodles. Before then when I heard the word noodle I thought macaroni: spaghetti, penne or maybe elbows. But here were these delightfully chewy wide ribbons nestled in this tingly, savory sauce. An addictive balance of tastes and textures. I was converted. Asian noodles were now my jam.

Except for the occasional mac and cheese or pasta carbonara (because they are both the very definition of comfort food, and when made well, each is utterly sublime), my noodling was mostly restricted to Asian cuisine. Pasta, I decided, was boring.

You may wonder how I could think this. Pasta is about variety. So many different shapes: bucatini, conchiglie, ditalini, farfalle, farfalline, mafalda, pappardelle, spaghetti, spaghettini, spaghettoni. So many different types: semolina, wheat, whole wheat, gluten-free, bean, chickpea, lentil, edamame, corn, quinoa, almond flour.

And that’s just the noodles. Then we need to look at what you to put on it. Tomato sauce alone has copious variations. Then what about sauces built around mushrooms or other veggies, garlic, seafood, cheese.

Lucky for me, I experienced a gastronomic intervention at Gabriel’s, a storied restaurant in Midtown Manhattan. I ordered their Tagliatelle Bolognese. The moment the first forkful hit my tongue I wondered if I had perhaps died and gone to noodle heaven. It was one of the most delicious things I had ever eaten. The pasta was handmade on-premise. The sauce was a perfect blend of veal, beef, and pancetta combined with tomato and cream.

I was wrong. It wasn’t you, Pasta. It was me. I thought I knew you, but I only really knew an idea of you. Mi perdoni, Pasta, mi perdoni. You are not in the least boring. I just wouldn’t let you be interesting.

That superstar tagliatelle inspired me to expand my pasta horizons. As I learn to match the right shape to the right sauce I’ve paired gemelli with pesto, orzo with butternut squash, linguine with olive oil and cheese, and ravioli with brown butter with sage. The other day I tried a tomato sauce variation that was rather like giving an old friend a makeover: Orecchiette with Creamy Tomato, Leek and Bacon Sauce, from “Piatto Unico” by Toni Lydecker, published by Lake Isle Press.

It’s Toni’s take on Pasta al Fumo —“smoked pasta”—a specialty from Cartona, a hill town in the heart of Tuscany. The original uses just a few readily available ingredients: bacon or pancetta with tomato, cream, and rosemary. Toni’s version adds carrots and a leek and brought to mind that deliziosa Gabriel’s Bolognese—great taste and texture, plus an aroma to die for.

It’s an easy recipe to follow, and an easy one to accomplish. I cut it in half because in my book a pound of orecchiette would make a lot more than four servings; halving it gave me the equivalent of three large or four smaller servings, with enough extra sauce for one more. I shared leftovers with a friend who agreed; this dish is yummy. The sauce improves with age so the leftovers were even better; I added a little hot pepper, which put it over the top.

I’m far from ending my love affair with Asian noodles, but then again, noodles don’t present an either/or situation. Pad Thai, Spaghetti Pomodoro, Ramen, Penne Arrabiata, Garlic Udon, Capellini Primavera … you’ll overdose on carbs ten times over before you exhaust the possibilities.

Orecchiette with Creamy Tomato, Leek, and Bacon Sauce
Orecchiette al Fumo

Makes 4 servings | Prep 20 Minutes | Cook 30 Minutes

Click here to print recipe.

INGREDIENTS
1 medium carrot
3 slices good-quality bacon
1 medium leek (white part plus 1 inch green), halved lengthwise and washed (see Note)
Extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary (optional)
1 or 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 carton (about 26 ounces) strained plum tomatoes (such as Pomì) or 1 similar-size can of plum tomatoes with purée, puréed in a blender
1/4 to 1/2 cup heavy cream
Sea salt or kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 pound orecchiette or other short pasta shape
2/3 to 1 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese

PREPARATION

Peel and chop the carrot. Cut the bacon lengthwise in thin strips; cut crosswise in small squares. Cut the leek crosswise in thin slices.
Combine the leek and carrot with enough olive oil to coat the bottom of a saucepan or skillet large enough to accommodate the pasta later (about 3 tablespoons). Cook over medium heat, stirring often, until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Add the bacon, cooking until the fat is rendered but the bacon is not yet crisped.
Stir in the rosemary (if using) and garlic, cooking just until fragrant. Add the tomato paste and stir until it darkens. Stir in the strained tomatoes. When the sauce begins to bubble, reduce the heat to low; stir in the cream and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer very slowly, adding a little water if the sauce thickens too much, while cooking the pasta.
Fill a large saucepan about two-thirds full with cold water. Bring to a boil and add a handful of salt. Add the orecchiette, stirring to separate, and boil until al dente, 8 to 12 minutes. Drain, reserving 2 cups of the pasta water.
Immediately add the hot pasta to the skillet, stirring well to combine. Add as much of the pasta water as needed for a saucy consistency (the sauce should coat the pasta fairly thickly).
Stir half of the cheese into the pasta and spoon into shallow bowls; sprinkle with the remaining cheese or pass at the table.

Note:
Pushing up through the earth, a leek can trap a fair amount of soil. After halving the leek lengthwise, wash each layer under running water. If the recipe permits, as this one does, slice the leek crosswise and place the pieces in a bowl of cold water; the leek will remain at the top, while any dirt sinks; after a few minutes, scoop out the leek.