Masoor Daal
Vegan Comfort Food
Red Lentils with Cilantro and Mint | Dara O’Brien
By Dara O’Brien
Creative Director, Lake Isle Press
My love affair with masoor daal (aka red lentils) began about five years ago.
We met through a friend who was staying with me when she was between apartments. Her life was up in the air and she needed a place to crash while she figured things out. One night she picked up red lentils, along with a spicy little mix to add some heat, and brought them back to my place.
Turns out they never did get together. She left them high and dry in my cupboard with nary a backward glance when she skipped out a few weeks later. Her loss, however, was my gain. I gave my friend’s castoffs a shot and I’ve been fooling around with masoor daal ever since.
It can get confusing because masoor daal is the name for a kind of legume—red lentils—as well as the stew they make. They turn yellow when you cook them, especially if you add turmeric, just to add to the confusion. So let’s call the ingredient red lentils and the dish masoor daal.
Masoor Daal makes for a cheap, easy, vegan meal—no muss, no fuss. Like their cousins, split peas, red lentils break down very easily and can get mushy if you leave them cooking for too long so pay attention; otherwise, go to town. You can play fast and loose with the spices; add different veggies; reduce the cooking liquid until fully absorbed or drain when the lentils are tender; add coconut milk or cream; or serve it over rice or with flatbread or not.
The recipe I have been building on for a while is Nigella Lawson’s, which blends red lentils with onions, garlic, ginger, chile, diced tomatoes, sweet potatoes, cilantro, coconut, and spices. I leave off the coconut, and usually add cream or coconut milk, sometimes a little cinnamon, garam masala, or mustard seeds.
I plan to keep experimenting—add spinach, perhaps, or carrots, cauliflower, or squash, maybe try a pinch of asafoetida. In the meantime I decided to strip things down to basics and tried a recipe from Vikas Khanna and his book, “Flavors First” published by Lake Isle Press.
It’s a bare bones take on masoor daal that adds two ingredients I had never tried in it: lemon and fresh mint. They added a brightness that I really enjoyed, and made for an even lighter meal than the version I’ve been riffing off of. Though it remains satisfying on its own, it makes for a tasty side dish for fish or chicken.
Prep is easy, and can be accomplished while the lentils simmer. Note that this is one of those recipes that directs you to drain the lentils, so don’t wait for them to reduce as I almost did. I tend to be conservative and remove the seeds when I cook with chile peppers, so I did not include them as the recipe directs. I served the daal over a brown basmati and had plenty of leftovers, which were just as good as the first time.
Though masoor daal and I are still in the getting-to-know-you stage, we’re definitely serious. My experience has been that it’s an easy, adaptable dish; it soaks up whatever flavors I want to give it; and it has a rich texture without being too chewy. Comfort food at its best. When I was young, dishes like mac and cheese or mashed potatoes were my comfort food, and they still are. But that doesn’t mean I’m not open to exploring new relationships.
Red Lentils with Cilantro and Mint
Click here for printable recipe.
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
1 cup dried red lentils, picked over, washed, and drained
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
1 bay leaf
Pinch of salt
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small red onion, finely chopped
½ tablespoon peeled, minced fresh ginger
½ tablespoon minced garlic
1 fresh green chile pepper (such as serrano), minced, with seeds
1 tablespoon ground coriander
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon sugar
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus 1 tablespoon for garnish
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
PREPARATION
In a saucepan over high heat, combine the lentils, turmeric, bay leaf, and salt. Cover with water by 2 inches and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the lentils are tender but still firm, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside.
In a small frying pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion, ginger, garlic, green chile, coriander, cumin, cinnamon, paprika, and sugar. Reduce the heat to low and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Remove from heat. Discard the bay leaf.
In a large bowl, combine the lentils and the spice mixture, tossing gently to mix. Stir in the cilantro and mint, then stir in the lemon juice. Serve garnished with freshly chopped cilantro.
Recipe from “Flavors First” by Vikas Khanna, published by Lake Isle Press, 2011
Red Lentils with Cilantro and Mint Recipe
from “Flavors First” by Vikas Khanna, Lake Isle Press, 2011
OTHER RECIPES FROM THIS BOOK
Brown Basmati with Caramelized Onions and Broccoli
Brown Lentils and Zucchini with Lime
Cabbage and Mushrooms with Turmeric-Infused Butter
Chicken and Ricotta Cheese Curry
Chicken Tikka Masala
Dill and Cardamom Chicken
Orange-Ginger Chutney Recipe
Spring Onion and Pea Soup
Stir-Fried Potatoes with Green Beans and Mint
Sweet Eggplant Chutney
Yellow Lentils with Turmeric and Ginger
Flavors First draws from celebrated Indian Chef Vikas Khanna's culinary journey from his native India to his experience as a Michelin-starred chef in New York. With entire chapters devoted to every part of an Indian meal (even breads, chutneys, desserts and beverages) and an ingredient and spice glossary that includes tips on handling and storage, Flavors First is an indispensable resource on Indian home cooking.
“Vikas Khanna's enthusiasm for food is so intense that it practically explodes off the page. I could taste the dishes just by reading the recipes.” —Jean-Georges Vongerichten