A Savory Italian Favorite

By Dara O’Brien
Creative Director, Lake Isle Press

Like many alienated high school girls, I fancied myself a poet. Most of my work trafficked in despair.

In my eagerness to explore my inner emo I cultivated disdain for any societal norms. That included the paths my parents took, especially my mom, who was a homemaker. She stayed so close to home she didn’t even know how to drive, even though we lived in a suburban area with few stores of any kind, including grocers, within walking distance.

Fortunately for me, as I’ve gotten older I’ve come to appreciate the choices my mom made. While it is not my only occupation, I no longer view making a home and everything that comes with it as drudgery or a form of imprisonment. That’s especially true for cooking.

I have good friends who spend as little time in the kitchen as possible. I had dinner with one of them last night. Her apartment has a lovely little balcony so we decided we would eat in and have potluck. Near the time of my arrival she called from a grocery store to verify what I was bringing and discuss what she’d provide. She sounded lost, and a little burdened by the task.

My friend’s grocery store dilemma illuminated something for me: far from making me feel confined, cooking liberates me. The satisfaction I get from being in the driver’s seat in regard to the food I eat, either making a meal myself or finding inventive options for prepared food or take-out, is deep.

So while my friend looked on contributing to our potluck as a bit of a chore—and definitely didn’t want to have to prepare anything—I was delighted that I would have a chance to share something I had already planned on making anyway: a homemade farinata (chickpea pancake). It’s called a socca on the French side of the border, and it’s a savory flatbread that bakes in the oven at high heat and comes out deliciously creamy and can be served hot or at room temperature.

FARINATA TO THE RESCUE

Farinata is a true pantry recipe—just chickpea flour, water, and oil. I topped mine with chives and a little sea salt. It’s a versatile dish as well; it can incorporate a range of other ingredients, including rosemary, which is frequently added, or perhaps onions, spinach, mushrooms, or zucchini. It can be paired with a soup or salad for a meal, or served as an appetizer on its own or like a flatbread topped with a tapenade, perhaps, or roasted veggies. And a squeeze of lemon won’t do it any harm.

I used a recipe from “The Chickpea Flour Cookbook,” by Camilla V. Saulsbury, published by Lake Isle Press. I followed the recipe precisely and the result was perfect. I made a fresh corn salad to pair with it and suggested my friend provide a green salad to round it out. Dinner was set.

Sharing this farinata with my friend and helping solve her grocery store dilemma served as a marker for me of how my attitude toward cooking has shifted. This would surprise my high school self, but I have come to see it as my small and very personal superpower.

Farinata Recipe
(La Farina Genovese)

Click here for printable recipe.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups (240 grams) chickpea flour
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Pinch of freshly ground black pepper
3 cups warm (not hot) water
5 tablespoons olive oil

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

PREPARATION

In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, and pepper. Whisk in the water and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil until well blended and smooth. Cover the bowl with a clean dish towel and let stand at room temperature for at least 3 hours or for up to 24 hours.
Preheat the oven to 500°F. Pour 1 tablespoon of the remaining oil in a 9-inch cast iron skillet (or other ovenproof skillet); heat in the oven for 10 minutes.
Remove the skillet from the oven; pour in half of the batter, swirling to coat. Bake for 12 minutes; crack open the oven door to release steam. Close the oven door and bake for 6 to 8 minutes longer, until golden brown and crispy at the edges. Use a metal spatula to release the farinata, and transfer it to a plate.
Repeat with remaining oil and batter. Cut each farinata into 6 wedges. Serve warm or at room temperature.

VARIATIONS

Socca Provençal: Prepare batter as directed. Pour a third of the batter at a time into a hot, oiled skillet; bake for 8 minutes before cracking open the door, then bake for 4 to 6 minutes longer, until it’s deep golden brown at the edges. Transfer to a plate and repeat with the remaining batter (you will need a total of 6 tablespoons oil). Tear into rough pieces (the traditional way to serve socca).

Rosemary Garlic Farinata: Add 2 cloves garlic, minced, and 1½ teaspoons minced fresh rosemary to the batter. If desired, sprinkle finished farinata with 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.

Mini Farinate/Soccas: Grease the cups of 2 standard muffin tins. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Pour 1½ tablespoons batter into each cup. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until just set. Cool in tins for 2 minutes and then invert onto a wire rack. Repeat with the remaining batter. The mini farinate can be eaten as a snack or used as an appetizer base (warm or room temperature) with any number of toppings. Store the cooled mini farinate in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

Recipe from “The Chickpea Flour Cookbook” by Camilla V. Saulsbury, Lake Isle Press, 2015